About the rusty landy

Land Rover Defender 110 Van 300TDi

Year: 1994

Mileage: 140k

Pampered bodywork but chassis shot to pieces - previous owner had fitted new front outriggers, bit of a waste of time really.

Thought that putting new wheels on would kid the MOT tester, but hey he's not that stupid...

MOT failure: rust hole within 30 cms of tow bar mounting, and within 30 cms of body mounting.

The big decision

Choice was new rear crossmember + tedious annual welding elsewhere, or new chassis.

Easy choice really.

Which defender chassis supplier?

Choice of 3 really...

• Richards
• Marsland
• Designa

Few people on the forums mentioned Designa, so really down to Richards or Marsland.

Marsland only supply a TD5 crossmember for a 300TDi and wanted to keep as original as possible.

Hence went for Richards.

How much?

Chassis: £1235

Removeable cross-member: £70

Turret tops: £60

Delivery: £156

VAT (20%): 304.20

Total: £1825 

DIY or full service?

Quotes from Land Rover specialists to do the chassis swap ranged from £1250 to £2500, although the latter included new pipes, hoses, bushes, bolts etc, etc, and the former would probably add these on, so £2500 seemed the going rate including bits, giving total for chassis+swap of nearly £4500.

Choice was boring overtime or get out in the fresh air.

Easy choice: DIY

Exactly how easy is it?

As you'll see on the following pages, probably the most strenuous bit is constructing the A-frame and rear support for the body for lifting it from the chassis.

Apart from that, providing full use is made of levers and fulcrums to avoid any actual physical effort, its mainly a load of aerobic exercise crawling around underneath and in the hole which opens up between the seats to reveal access to the transfer box and handbrake area.

There's only about 10 bolted mounting areas for the body onto the chassis in a 110 van, comprising of roughly 30 rusty bolts, some of which will need an angle grinder. Other body to chassis contact is via rubber pads, mainly supporting the rear load bay.

Then there's the pipes and hoses, but with hydraulic brakes and clutch which its easier to cut and renew later, this is all straightforward.

A few other cables such as speedo, throttle and handbrake, plus a selection of electrical harness plugs, and apart from the coolant, oil and air hoses, there's really nothing complicated on a 300TDi.

Anyone who's messed with Mecano as a kid shouldn't have too many difficulties.

Chassis lead time

Richards reckoned 6-8 weeks for delivery, order was placed on 28 Feb and delivered on 14 May, hence 10½ weeks.

I didn't chase them as there was no rush to start, but they say if you need it by a specific date, to coincide with holidays or suchlike, they'll deliver pronto.

Essential tools

Many of these can be sold on Ebay after use and overall cost will probably be less than renting...

• Engine crane: National NC20 (Sealey PH20) 2 Ton Engine Crane/Hoist: Ebay £195
• Engine load leveller: Sealey LS500 Load Sling Leveller Adjuster (Crane Hoist): Ebay £35
• 4x4 winch harness 
• Car creeper:
• Angle grinder with metal cutting wheels and safety goggles
• Usual spanners, wrenches, 1/2" sockets (7mm to 34mm), etc
• Extra long 1/2" socket wrench for extra leverage
• Large plumbers pipe wrench (great for gripping old shocks and rusted nuts and bolts)
• Heavy duty tyre lever or crowbar
• Large club hammer
• Workbench with vice
• Ball joint separator
• Patience

 

Next... Wires cut in separation battle